Quito, Ecuador

I’m wrapping my year of travel – which has been loads of fun – with another trip (just) across the equator in Ecuador.

This post will be a mix of what I did for the first two days in the country with a few little stories mixed throughout.

The Secret Garden

I stayed at the Secret Garden Quito, which is located in the old town and was “a little quieter” than some of the more party-focused hostels elsewhere.

This proved to be a good decision as raging parties are not my thing. I much prefer a crowd that’s traveling for the overall experience rather than the next day’s hangover. That said, the hostel was one of the most lively of any I’ve ever visited. The rooms are on several floors and moving around is like navigating a small maze. This drives everyone to the rooftop terrace where meals and drinks are served.

The environment is festive but chill and I met a lot of cool people that are traveling South America. More on that later.

Many people leave on a “party bus” at 11. The bar shuts down as well so it’s quiet enough (until the party bus returns) to get some sleep.

A big part of the allure is the fantastic view of the old town from the terrace.

The food was good as well. Happy hour beers were two large bottles for $3.

Walking Tour

On the first day I did the “Carpe Diem” walking tour which left from the hostel. I thought this might be a way to bump into some cool people and I was absolutely correct.

It started a little slow, with the owner of the company rambling on while most of the group wondered what the heck he was talking about, him acknowledging the very thing, and numerous “one last thing” statements that included quoting Jack Kerouac and [probably] Dr. Seuss (I stopped listening and considered going my own way). However, the rambling eventually ended and our guide, Fernando, was great.

I won’t recount the entire walking tour (you should go), but it sounds like it changes every day based on the guide you have. For us, we visited the outside of the Basilica, an empanada stand, a chocolate factory (including tasting!), a museum with some local art, the San Franciscan church, a Jesuit church that is loaded with gold (but was closed), and of course the main plaza where the president of Ecuador gives his weekly address.

I didn’t get to see the inside of the Basilica (not enough time) but the lady next to me on the flight from Atlanta said there is a marking on the floor inside where, when you look straight ahead, you can see through a strangely-positioned heart-shaped carving, the statue of Angel Maria (the one on the hill in the picture above) at all times from the alter.

Quito was celebrating its anniversary as a city, so it was a holiday. That meant some places were closed. There were also fireworks in the old town at night, which we could enjoy from the rooftop at Secret Garden Quito.

Mitad del Mundo

Literally, “middle of the world”. The equatorial line passes through the “Ciudad Mitad del Mundo Museo” 45 minutes north of Old Town Quito. This was a tourist trap of epic proportions, but worth enduring for a chance to stand with one foot in each hemisphere.

The tour, plus the 90 minutes of round trip transportation, was only $8 per person from our hostel, and it felt appropriate to patron Carpe Diem after the 4 hour long free walking tour. The tour was all kinds of random: we saw mocked indigenous people’s homes, a mocked Amazon with fake animals like anacondas (but real snake skin), and even shrunken heads.

The “middle of the world” part was a bit hokey as well — there were a series of demonstrations about how water goes straight down instead of swirling (I saw no difference), how it’s easier to pull someone’s arm down when they are on the equatorial line (like 3 feet makes a difference?), etc. I also had the chance to balance an egg on a nail. Those who succeed are “Egg Masters”, and I am pleased to announce that I am, indeed, and Egg Master.

A bit of history lacking most of the details: long ago the French estimated the location of the equator and created a monument in Ecuador. In the year 2000, GPS technology was able to confirm that the actual location is the line inside of the museum which was pictured above. The French missed the mark by about 200 meters. Two amazing things: first they were very close. Way to go France. Second, it took until the year 2000 to actually have the right answer!

The incorrect center of the word

It still costs $5 to enter the “not actually the center of the world” so I skipped that part.

Despite the sarcastic tone of this section, we still had fun and it was worth the time for the pictures and memories.

Otavalo Market

The Otavalo Market is a large outdoor market in the city of Otavalo, about 2 hours north of Quito. We visited on Saturday, which is the biggest “market day”. Vendors like the streets and fill the central plaza with alpaca sweaters, hats, blankets… wood work… paintings… and street food.

Me, Sabine (Munich), Mike (San Diego), and Rocky (Lithuania)

I didn’t purchase anything at the market but it would have been fun. Rocky was able to get a hat that was priced at $18 for $5. Others in the group got alpaca blankets and hand-made bags. Most seemed happy with the purchase. After lunch and an average cappuccino, we headed back to Quito and made it in time for happy hour.

The Best Part

By far, the greatest part of Quito was the other travelers I met. I met Mike from San Diego who I am still traveling with a week later. I met a great Irish couple that I hope to visit in the future. I met Sabine from Germany who would rejoin us for the Quilatoa Trek a few days later. The space at the Secret Garden was great for sitting, talking, playing cards, and enjoying some drinks with new friends. The hostel turned out to be a launching point for short (and long) term community.

I think the key is the “travelers mindset”, as many call it. Those who travel, especially in less developed countries, tend to have a baseline of shared values, desires, interests… and a drive for connecting with other people… this further amplified in those traveling alone and/or for extended periods (6-12 months is common among those I have met).

This blend creates an environment ripe for real conversations that transcend culture, politics, and whatever else. These are my people.

One thought on “Quito, Ecuador

  1. Hi Brian, just bumped into your travel diary. Great to read about your trips and our travel days 🙂

    How are you?

    Would you share your Otavalo market pictures with me? That would be awsome! Thank you so much!

    All the best, Sabine

    Like

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